The Last Beach Hrush
Over the last decade, India’s favourite beach destination, Goa, has become one of the world’s favourite beach getaways. The increasing influx of Indian and overseas travellers has transformed Goa. Commercialism does that; and commercialism has bit Goa hard. Today’s Goa is constantly “under construction;” hotels, restaurants, clubs and more are springing up like weeds as a generation of Goans rushes to cash in on tourism’s pot of gold.
From a traveller’s perspective, Goa’s beaches have taken a distinct turn for the worse–more crowded, more polluted and more noisy. Goa’s three most popular beaches–Baga, Calangute, Candolim–are not even worth a visit anymore; they’re so crowded, one can barely see the sand.
I was in Goa last week for a holiday and had two choices: 1) Use the hotel pool 2) Find a better beach. I chose the latter, but wanted a beach that offered solitude and tranquility along with the beach basics of sun, sea and sand. We went north of Aswem Beach towards Arambol and found Mandrem.
Mandrem is a secluded beach with large empty stretches of sand and very little shade. A charming shallow creek separates the beach from the mainland, requiring a quick trip across a bamboo footbridge before one hits the beach. The beach is long, deep and flat; and the people are few, mostly yoga-practising Europeans living in huts along the beach. The water at Mandrem was calm and revitalising–silver fish swam and jumped around us and a mix of hot and cold currents swirled under the surface.
But commercialism is calling. An old government prawn factory on the beach has already been restored and converted into a lounge bar that doesn’t hesitate to begin disturbing the peace as the sun starts going down in the early evening.
I hate to say it, but Mandrem may well be Goa’s last beach, and it won’t stay this way for long. Enjoy it soon if you get the chance.
What about Morjim? Even that’s pretty empty.
Unfortunately, Morjim is apparently not that empty any more as I just heard from Varun at lunch today.
The trick is in going to Candolim between Feb 10 and 28. Baga and Calangute are lost forever, but Candolim still survives… Did you get to Little Italy (the most wonderful vegetarian pizzeria, isn’t it?) and Bob’s Stakehouse?
Dhruv–I was staying at a hotel on Candolim beach and it was the last week of February. The beach is not the same at all–it’s packed and misshapen; almost like a cliff in the way the beach suddenly drops off. Apparently this was the effect of some erosion that took place around the time of the last tsunami.
Nobody is bothered,whats the difference, even you you want all your readers to enjoy the place before it gets ruined. Thats how people/companies are promoting poverty tourism in India after Slumdog Millionaire, govt. is least bothered. Welcome to India.
Okay, I officially despise you for bringing Mandrem to the public eye. I was surprised how well it had been hidden for so long.
Heh, the perfect example of "The Beach" kind of scenario. Btw, I went to Palolem this weekend. Personally, I thought it was just the right amount of commercialization and the right amount of crowd. I mean, what’ll you do at an empty beach? You need some beer to drink & chicks to look at, right?
Hursh,
Mandrem is not the last beach in Goa. Number of alluring beaches are still there. Gajibagh, Rajbagh, querim etc are few of them. The interesting part is most of the travelers just don’t want to explore. They just want to get boozed and have fun in a crowded place
It still remains my favorite travel destination for both summer and winter vacation. It’s amazing experience having fun there on Christmas.